Zizkov Prague Guide | TV Tower, Pubs and Local Life

Žižkov is Prague's most stubbornly authentic neighbourhood. While other districts have polished their edges for visitors, Žižkov has remained defiantly itself — a former working-class quarter with more pubs per street than most cities have in an entire district, a television tower decorated with giant crawling babies, and a population that includes a healthy mix of artists, students, old-school locals, and newcomers drawn by the relatively affordable rents and the atmosphere of a neighbourhood that does not try to impress anyone.

Named after Jan Žižka, the one-eyed Hussite military commander who never lost a battle, the district sits on a hill east of the city centre. Žižkov's identity is tied to its working-class and countercultural roots — it was the last part of Prague to receive running water, it was a stronghold of the 1989 Velvet Revolution, and its pub culture is genuinely embedded in daily life rather than performed for tourists.

We bring guests to Žižkov when they want to see the Prague that guidebooks underrepresent. This guide covers the best things to see, where to drink, and why Žižkov rewards the visitor willing to step outside the usual tourist circuit.

The Žižkov Television Tower

You cannot miss it. At 216 metres, the Žižkov TV Tower is the tallest structure in Prague, visible from nearly everywhere in the city. Designed by architect Václav Aulický and completed in 1992, it was immediately controversial — a Brutalist space-age tower rising above a neighbourhood of 19th-century tenements.

In 2000, artist David Černý added ten fibreglass sculptures of giant babies crawling up and down the tower's three pillars. The babies have no faces — their features are replaced by a barcode-like slit. They were meant to be temporary but became so identified with the tower that they are now permanent.

The observation deck at 93 metres offers 360-degree views of Prague. On clear days, you can see the Bohemian hills in every direction. The viewing platform is less crowded than the Old Town Hall tower and provides a perspective on the city that no other viewpoint can match — you see Prague's rooftops extending outward in every direction, with the castle and Petřín Hill to the west.

Insider detail: the tower also houses a small luxury hotel — a single suite built into one of the tower's pods at 70 metres. It is one of the most unusual hotel rooms in Europe. Even if you do not stay there, the observation deck visit (around 250 CZK) is worth the price for the views alone.

Vítkov Hill and the National Monument

Vítkov Hill rises steeply at the western edge of Žižkov, and its summit is crowned by one of the largest equestrian statues in the world — the monument to Jan Žižka, completed in 1950. The statue weighs 16.5 tonnes and stands 9 metres tall on a granite pedestal that dominates the skyline from below.

Beneath the statue is the National Memorial on Vítkov, a Functionalist building from the 1930s that served as a Communist-era mausoleum (the embalmed body of President Klement Gottwald was displayed here until it decomposed and had to be cremated in 1962). Today, it houses an exhibition on Czech 20th-century history, with a focus on the independence movements and the two world wars.

The terrace in front of the monument offers one of the best views in Prague — the entire city centre laid out below you, from the castle to Vyšehrad, with the Vltava curving through the middle.

Insider detail: the walk up Vítkov Hill from the Žižkov side takes about 15 minutes and passes through a quiet park. Most tourists who visit Vítkov approach from the Florenc side (the western approach), but the Žižkov approach from the east is more atmospheric and less steep. Start from U Památníku street.

Pub Culture — Žižkov's Soul

Žižkov's reputation as Prague's pub capital is not exaggeration. The neighbourhood reportedly has more drinking establishments per capita than anywhere in the Czech Republic, possibly in Europe. These are not craft cocktail bars or curated taprooms — they are traditional Czech hospody (pubs) where the beer is fresh, the prices are local, and the atmosphere is unpretentious.

U Sadu — on Škroupovo náměstí. A classic Žižkov pub with a large outdoor terrace, Pilsner Urquell on tap, and a menu of straightforward Czech food (svíčková, guláš, smažený sýr). It draws a mix of old-timers and younger locals.

Hospůdka Na Vítkově — near the base of Vítkov Hill. A neighbourhood pub in the truest sense — regulars at the bar, Czech television on the screen, and half-litres of Gambrinus for under 50 CZK.

Bukowski's Bar — a literary-themed bar on Bořivojova Street that bridges the gap between traditional pub and modern bar. Czech beer on tap alongside a longer cocktail list. Named after the American writer, it attracts a younger, more international crowd.

Pivní Rozmanitost — a craft beer bottle shop and tap room on Slavíkova Street. If you want to explore Czech microbreweries beyond the mainstream brands, this is the place. Rotating taps feature small Bohemian and Moravian brewers that even Prague beer enthusiasts may not know.

Insider detail: the Czech pub tick system applies in Žižkov's traditional hospody. The server brings you a new beer automatically when your glass is nearly empty, marking each one on a paper slip. To stop, place a coaster on your glass or say "zaplatím" (I'll pay). Do not leave money on the table — tell the server the total you want to pay, including tip.

What to See

The New Jewish Cemetery (Nový židovský hřbitov)

Located on the eastern edge of Žižkov, this cemetery is far less visited than the Old Jewish Cemetery in Josefov but equally significant. Franz Kafka is buried here — his grave, marked by a simple geometric obelisk, is one of Prague's most visited memorial sites. The cemetery itself, established in 1890, contains thousands of graves in a park-like setting with mature trees and a quiet atmosphere.

Olšany Cemetery (Olšanské hřbitovy)

Prague's largest cemetery, bordering Žižkov to the south. A vast, atmospheric space with graves dating to the 18th century, overgrown sections, elaborate monuments, and a silence that feels remote despite being surrounded by the city. Jan Palach, the student who set himself on fire in 1969 to protest the Soviet invasion, is buried here.

Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord

Designed by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik and completed in 1932, this church on Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad is one of Prague's most architecturally significant modern buildings. The massive brick facade with its glass clock tower is unlike any other church in the city — a deliberate blend of early Christian, Art Deco, and Modernist influences that draws architecture students from around the world.

Insider detail: Plečnik also designed key elements of Prague Castle's renovation in the 1920s and 1930s, including the Bull Staircase and the Garden on the Ramparts. Seeing his church in Žižkov alongside his work at the castle gives you a fuller picture of an architect whose influence on Prague is underappreciated.

Where to Eat

Žižkov's food scene is evolving. Traditional Czech pubs serving lunch menus for 150-250 CZK coexist with newer restaurants bringing contemporary cooking to the neighbourhood.

Moment — a bistro on Milíčova Street with a daily-changing menu of modern Czech and European dishes. Small, casual, and popular with locals. Lunch mains 200-350 CZK.

Dhaba Beas — a vegetarian Indian buffet on Seifertova Street. Pay by weight (around 30-40 CZK per 100g), eat well, and spend remarkably little. One of Prague's best budget lunch options.

Havelská Koruna — if you want a traditional Czech cafeteria experience (not unlike a Žižkov pub kitchen but more organized), this small spot serves svíčková, smažený sýr, and daily specials in a no-frills setting.

Getting to Žižkov

Metro: Line A to Jiřího z Poděbrad puts you at the neighbourhood's southern edge. Flora station (also Line A) is useful for the eastern parts.

Tram: Lines 5, 9, and 26 run through Žižkov along Seifertova and other main streets. Tram is often more practical than metro for getting around within the neighbourhood.

Walking: from Old Town Square, it takes about 25 minutes to walk to the heart of Žižkov via Hybernská and Seifertova. The route is flat and passes through interesting transitional streets.

Pair a Žižkov afternoon with a morning in the historic centre. Our All Prague in One Day tour covers the castle, Lesser Town, Charles Bridge, and Old Town — after which a Žižkov pub visit is exactly the right change of pace. And the Medieval Dinner show brings the evening to life with a Gothic cellar feast — unlimited beer included, in the spirit of Žižkov itself.

FAQ

Is Žižkov safe for tourists? Yes. Žižkov has a grittier appearance than Vinohrady or the Old Town, but it is safe for walking day and night. As with any city, basic awareness applies — keep valuables secure and avoid unlit alleys late at night.

What is the Žižkov TV Tower used for? It is a functioning television and radio transmission tower, an observation deck open to visitors, and home to a single luxury hotel suite. The crawling baby sculptures by David Černý were added in 2000 and are now permanent.

Where is Franz Kafka buried? At the New Jewish Cemetery (Nový židovský hřbitov) on the eastern edge of Žižkov. The cemetery is open Sunday through Thursday and on Friday mornings. Kafka's grave is in Section 21, Row 14 — signs point the way from the entrance.

How do I get to Žižkov from Old Town? Metro Line A to Jiřího z Poděbrad is the fastest route (about 5 minutes). Walking takes 25 minutes via Seifertova Street. Trams 5, 9, and 26 also connect the centre to Žižkov.

Žižkov Prague Guide — Pubs, Views and Local Character